Do You Really Want To Raise Kittens?

Enjoying the unconditional love of kittens is extremely gratifying.  But, before taking on the responsibility of transforming furry little bundles into cuddly lap cats, consider these aspects of the task:

• Time Commitment. Although you'll have the kittens only a few weeks, the work is nonstop and very intense.  They will need daily attention from you and others.  If the kittens are very young and the mom cat is present, you can share the work with her -- but if the kittens are alone, the fostering becomes a 24/7 commitment for at least the first 4 weeks.  Until that age, kittens depend on you for help in all aspects of living.

• Expense. Raising kittens is very expensive when you consider the veterinary costs of managing their health at this early stage and getting them vaccinated and sterilized prior to turning them over to their adoptive guardian.  Specialty supplies such as kitten formula can be quite costly as well.  One way to defray these costs is to hook up with a cat adoption organization that will fund them.

• Health Risks. Although there are many things you can do to ensure your foster kittens are healthy, there is no way to guarantee this.  And, in spite of everything you do, one or more of them may die.  This can be very distressing to a foster parent.

• Learning to Let Go. You care for the kittens for several weeks, teach them to welcome human contact, and in return they shower you with trust and affection.  All of a sudden they are weaned, 8 weeks old, and need to move on to permanent loving homes.  You embark on an emotional roller coaster -- on one hand, you're pleased that they turned out so well and on the other hand, you can't bear to part with them.  As hard as it is, you must.  Not all individuals are strong enough to do this -- if you are not, it may be better to not foster at all.

Introduction

Kitten Season.  It happens every year -- in late winter/early spring -- "kitten season" begins and it continues well past Labor Day.  Shelters that are barely able to handle the lighter fall/winter intake of orphaned cats and occasional kittens begin to burgeon with homeless pregnant mom cats and neonatal (infant) kittens.  At the same time, others in the community find homeless mom cats with litters in their garage, under their porch and care for them till they are individually adopted out -- or taken to the shelter when they are unable to place them on their own.

In our community, about 2,000 kittens each season are taken to shelters and vet clinics for adoption.  Unfortunately only about half that number make it into loving homes -- the rest are euthanized for a variety of reasons -- no foster home to care for them, not socialized well enough to be a house cat, contracted a treatable viral illness while at the shelter, and even more sadly -- there simply weren't enough homes to go around!

Cat Overpopulation.  So, as cute and loving as kittens are, we need to rethink what we do when we find a homeless pregnant cat.  If the pregnancy is not in the final stage, is it more humane to spay the mom cat and abort the kittens -- or let them be born and become a shelter euthanasia statistic?

Unless you're a professional breeder, please don't even consider letting your female cat breed.  Don't be lulled by the false logic that since you can find homes for your kittens it's okay to enjoy the experience of raising them.  We live in a closed-loop community -- there are a finite number of homes.  Every kitten you actively bring into the world by not spaying your cat will prevent another less fortunate kitten or cat from getting a home.

Working Toward Zero Population Growth.  By the simple practice of spaying early- and mid-term feral pregnant cats -- and making sure our pet cats are sterilized by 16 weeks of age -- we can easily make a dent in the huge numbers of kittens born each year.  It won't get us immediately to zero population growth -- but it will help tremendously.  A cat is a prolific breeder -- one female cat can have up to 3 litters per year of an average 4 kittens per litter.  Her kittens can start breeding at 4 months.  The increase is geometric.  The math is staggering!

Even after we have prevented as many kittens as we can, we are still faced with a goodly number we can't prevent.  Feral or outdoor cats are inherently fearful of people.  They do their best to maintain a low profile and we frequently have no idea they are living in our yard, behind our business, or on our campus.  The first we know of them is at the point their kittens are born.

Kitten Fostering Opportunities.  If you happen on a litter of baby kittens and want to save them from an outdoor feral existence, consider fostering them on your own and placing them in loving homes.  Remember that shelters are not set up to care for them.  They need the love, attention and peace of a foster guardian's home where they can thrive and learn to enjoy human companionship.  For this reason cat rescue groups and shelters are always in need of volunteers to foster the kittens they receive and would welcome your assistance.

Preparing To Foster

Preparing Your Own Pets.  If you have pet cats in your home, review their veterinary records and update any vaccinations that may have lapsed.  Rabies and FVRCP (distemper, upper respiratory) vaccinations should be given at least every 3 years and Feline Leukemia vaccinations should be administered annually if your cat is going to be in contact with foster cats.

Preparing Space for Foster Kittens.   It is important to have a small, heated room for your foster kittens.  Make sure everything in the room is "cat friendly" -- i.e., washable and if need be, replaceable.  A small bathroom or laundry room works well -- as does a spare bedroom.

Record-Keeping.  Have on hand a daily journal sheet for each kitten to record vital information -- weight, appetite, general appearance and any significant events.  Take the journal with you when you visit the vet.

Reference Material.   This handout is only an overview of what's involved in fostering kittens.  For more complete information, we recommend the ASPCA book entitled The Guide to Handraising Kittens by Susan Easterly.  It is available through the Alley Cat Allies website at www.alleycat.org.

For a better understanding of kitten development, we recommend reading Understanding Cats by naturalist and biologist Roger Tabor published by The Reader's Digest Association.

Fostering "Found" Kittens

If you find a pregnant cat, a mother cat with kittens, or a litter of kittens without a mother -- you can live trap and foster them provided you are willing to find permanent homes for them after they are socialized and old enough to be adopted -- typically eight weeks -- or make prior arrangements with an organization to take them for adoption.  If you do not have a plan for adoption, it may be best to leave them with their colony and manage them as outdoor cats -- including getting the entire colony sterilized to prevent further kittens.

Live Trapping.  If the kittens are old enough to move around, you may need to bait a live trap to catch them safely.  Place the trap near their feeding station.  Under a bush or in a hedge is preferable to out in the open.  Make sure the rear (sliding) door is latched.  Line the bottom of the trap with a sheet or two of newspaper just covering the trip plate -- they may be hesitant to walk on the wire mesh.

Bait the trap with a generous dollop of pungent food.  Put it on a scrap of paper, small paper plate, plastic dish, peanut butter lid -- anything that doesn't have sharp edges.  Then put it as far back in the trap as possible -- behind the trip plate but inaccessible from the outside.  You may want to trail bits of the food out to the opening to help lure the kittens in.

Once the kittens are trapped, transfer them to a pet carrier by lining the opening up with the rear sliding door of the trap.  Then open the trap and the kittens will move to the carrier.  (If the kittens are very young and not able to move around, you may be able to simply scoop them up in your hands -- protected by padded gloves and long sleeves -- and place them in the carrier.  Wait till the mother has left the kittens to take them.)

To trap the mother, place a baited live trap in front of the carrier -- cover the live trap with a towel so she can only access the carrier from the front.  The towel will also calm the mother once she is in the trap.

Keeping The Mother Cat.  Whenever possible, if the kittens are less than 4 weeks old, trap the mother cat with the kittens so that she can nurse them and provide them with warmth.  After the kittens are weaned, spay the mother and re-release her where you found her and continue to manage her as an outdoor cat.  Keeping her with the kittens after they are weaned may be counter-productive to socializing them.

Veterinary Evaluation.  Before bringing the mother and her kittens into your home, take them to the vet.  Use this initial vet visit to ask any questions you have on caring for the family and to determine if anyone needs special medical attention.  Viral test the mother cat for FIV and Felv to ensure the kittens are also negative.  If the mother tests positive for either virus, the vet will probably recommend the family be euthanized to prevent other cats from being infected.

Fostering Pregnant Cats.

If you find an obviously pregnant cat outdoors, live trap as described above and take her immediately to a vet for evaluation.  If there's still time, spay her and abort the kittens -- then re-release her to her home.  If the pregnancy is too far along, keep the pregnant cat and care for her through the remaining term.

Birthing Box.  Your pregnant cat will need a "birthing box" -- approximately 2'x2' with one side cut down for easy access and lined with old diapers or towels.  Let her get used to being in the box before she delivers so she will be more apt to use it for the birthing.

Signs Delivery is Imminent.  A cat's gestation period is approximately 63 days.  The closer to the end she is, the more restless she becomes.  Normally very hungry during pregnancy, she will lose her appetite.  If you can handle her and you sense she is looking for a place to deliver, put her in the birthing box.  If she doesn't want to stay in it, don't force her.

Labor.  During labor, the mother cat will breathe through her mouth and purr.  If the mother does not act or look concerned, there is nothing for you to do other than make sure the room temperature is at least 72 °F.  Kittens are born at least a half-hour apart, giving the mom time to wash each kitten and sever the umbilical cord before the next one arrives.  In some instances as much as 24 hours will lapse between births.

When To Help. The following situations require special assistance:

• Removing The Sac.  If the mother cat fails to remove the sac from a newborn kitten, you will need to.  Be careful not to pull on the umbilical cord.  Once the sac is removed cut the umbilical cord about an inch from the kitten's belly and tie the end with dental floss.  Rub the kitten with a clean towel to remove the amniotic fluid and stimulate breathing.  Once the kitten is breathing, place it close to its mother's belly.  The kitten will find a nipple and start sucking -- and the mother will then take over the care.

• Breech Kittens.  In a breech birth (hindquarters and tail emerge first), the mother may become weak and need help.  Each situation is different -- call your vet immediately for help.

• Contractions that don't result in birth.  If the mother has strong contractions for more than two hours with no resulting birth, kittens may be blocking the birth canal and she will need veterinary assistance to deliver.

• After all the kittens are born.  When the mother takes time to completely clean herself, it will be time for you to remove the soiled linens in their bed and replace them with clean ones.  Place the kittens back in the box with their mother.

• Kittens rejected by their mother.  If a kitten becomes chilled, the mother may reject it.  If you see this happen, warm the kitten by gently massaging its body to stimulate circulation, and then put her back with the mother.

Fostering Orphaned Kittens

If you find baby kittens alone outside and want to foster them, wait a few hours and observe -- especially if they are under 4 weeks old.  Many times the mother cat will move her kittens and can do so only one kitten at a time.  The process can take hours.  As long as the temperature outdoors is relatively warm and the kittens are in a protected area, they will be okay left alone for a few hours.  If the mother does not return, take the kittens, trapping them as explained earlier.

Find A Surrogate Mother.   If the kittens are under 4 weeks old and without a mother, try contacting local cat rescue groups and shelters to see if there is a surrogate mother available.  A mother cat whose kittens are being weaned can be given a new litter to nurse and care for.  In most instances this is preferable to bottle-feeding and hand-raising the kittens.

Preventing Hypothermia.   The most common death in unattended kittens is hypothermia so you need to take immediate action to warm the kittens.  Do not warm them too quickly or you may also cause death.  Kittens can be warmed through your own body warmth while gently massaging the kitten's body.  Make sure you have clothing between you and the kitten for your own protection.

Kitten "Incubator".  If you are fostering orphaned neonatal kittens, you will need a small cat carrier or a cardboard box with a heating pad set at low running down one side and halfway underneath the box.  The other half of the bottom should not be heated so that the kittens can move away from the pad if it gets too hot.  Line the bed with a towel.  The kitten area must be kept at 85 to 90 °F during their first week, then lowered 5° weekly until the temperature is 72 °F.  Use a thermometer frequently to check the heating pad temperature.

Feeding.  Following the directions provided on the package, feed orphaned infant kittens with commercial kitten formula.  Hold the kittens in their natural nursing position -- on the stomach -- being careful not to hold the head back as that could cause aspiration of the formula into the lungs.  Never feed a chilled kitten formula.  To stabilize him as you warm him, rub a very thin layer of light corn syrup on his gums.

Feed infant kittens a minimum of every six hours to ensure they get enough nourishment.  If a kitten hasn't started eating after 24 hours, seek veterinary assistance.  After feeding, wipe the face with a warm damp cloth and then dry it off until they are able to groom themselves.

Elimination.  Until they are old enough to use a litter box (2-3 weeks), they need help eliminating.  After feeding, take a moistened cotton ball and gently massage the anal region until they urinate or defecate.  It may take several cotton balls for each kitten to complete this process.

Weaning.  After the kittens are 2-3 weeks old, offer their formula to them in a saucer so they will learn to drink.  Gradually add small amounts of kitten food to the formula and then decrease the proportion of formula until they are just eating kitten food.  Make sure you always have fresh water out for the kittens to drink.

Fostering For A Local Adoption Group

Contact local cat adoption centers -- humane society, veterinary clinics and private rescue groups -- to see if they have any kittens available or if they maintain a list of foster homes.  They may request you apply to their program and to provide them with information similar to that you would provide to adopt a cat.

You too may wish to make a few inquiries of the organization:

• Will they viral test the mother cat for FIV and Felv prior to releasing her and the kittens to you?  This is particularly important if you have other cats in your home.

• Will they pay for the supplies you'll need to foster?  This would include, food, litter, medications (if any), and Milk Replacement Formula for neonatal kittens without a mother present -- or for large litters even if the mom is present).

• What happens if any of the kittens or the mother gets sick?  Who is responsible for veterinary charges and to what degree will medical services be provided?

• What role does the foster "parent" play in adopting out the kittens?  If you find homes for them, will the adoptive guardians be required to adopt them through the organization?

• Do they have a staff member to call when you have questions?

Medical Problems in Kittens

Kittens are susceptible to many of the same diseases that adult cats contract, but since their immune systems are not as well developed, even minor illnesses can be life-threatening.  In Susan Easterly's book, The Guide To Handraising Kittens, she cites the following events that need immediate veterinary attention:

• Has difficulty breathing
• Exhibits severe diarrhea or gray or white stool
• Vomits
• Does not eat
• Appears listless
• Has high fever
• Loses weight
• Displays open wounds or lesions
• Has pale gums/heavy flea infestation
• Loses balance/develops walking problems

Personal Safety Precautions

Following these precautions will help protect you and your pets from unnecessary exposure to medical issues while fostering:

Bites and Scratches.  Wear padded gloves and long sleeves as a precaution if the cats are particularly scared or wild.  Feral cats can inflict some serious damage.  If a cat bite breaks the skin, wash it well and go immediately to a doctor.  Cats' nails and teeth harbor bacteria and the risk of infection is very high.  If you get scratched, wash out the wound and keep an eye out for infection and fever.  Infected cat scratches can cause lymph node enlargement, fever, fatigue, sore throat and headaches.

Rabies.  Rabies, although feared, is relatively rare.  Still, you might want to get a pre-exposure vaccination if you are working with feral kittens.

Chlamydiosis.  Felines who have this upper respiratory infection can pass it to humans as conjunctivitis (pinkeye).  Don't touch your eyes after contact with afflicted feral cats.

Fleas and Ticks.  Feral cats may carry ticks infected with Lyme disease, which could transfer to humans and other animals.  Check your whole body carefully after spending time in a feral cat area.

Ringworm.  Ringworm is actually a fungus and can be transferred to both humans and other animals.  It makes cat fur fall out in a circular area, and the skin underneath will look red.  Wearing gloves will help protect you.

Internal Parasites.  Many internal parasites live in cat feces.  Toxoplasma dondii is a particularly nasty one that can be passed on to humans.  In pregnant women it can lead to abortion or fetal abnormalities.  If you're pregnant. have someone else clean the litter box and wear gloves and protect your body when handling feral cats.  Everyone should wear gloves and wash their hands well after cleaning litter boxes.

Cleanliness and a little precaution will reduce or eliminate most health risks.  Make sure to clean up leftover food and keep cat feces areas clean.

Excerpted from "Wildcats in Your Backyard", by Jennifer Hunter, an article appearing in the November 1999 issue of Catnip, a publication of the Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine, www.tufts.edu/vet/cfa.

Kitten Socialization

Kittens need early repetitive human contact -- preferably from more than one person, sex and age group -- to socialize into wonderful house cats.  If concentrated human contact is not present during the pre-weaning stage of the cat -- in particular from 2-7 weeks -- the kittens will develop into shy, reserved cats apprehensive of strangers.  No amount of special loving from their adoptive guardian afterward will be able to undo this.

While the kittens are living with you, gradually expose them to all of the aspects of normal housecat living -- children, other pets, visitors and noises such as televisions, vacuum cleaners, dishwashers and the like.  Take them for little "outings" into the different areas of your home, keeping them secure and protected in a large cat carrier.

Consider taking them for short drives to get used to being in a car.  Anything they are exposed to at this early stage will help them transform into calm, friendly companions in their permanent homes.  In their fact sheet, "Taming Feral Kittens", Alley Cat Allies describes a 5-stage socialization process for kittens:

1. Containment in cage. A feral kitten is extremely frightened and may hiss and "spit" at humans.  Begin with a cage in a small room and for the first two days do not attempt handling.  They must learn to feel safe.  Visit them frequently and talk to them but resist touching.  Always move slowly.  Leave a radio playing soft music on in the room with them.  Allow them to get used to human voices by leaving a television set on.

2. Periodic Handling. After two days, select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it, and pick it up in the towel.  If the kitten stays calm, pet it gently on the head from behind.  Never approach from the front.  Hands frighten the kitten and it may bite if approached from the front.  If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put the towel on your lap and set the kitten on the towel.  Stroke the kitten's body while speaking in soft, reassuring tones.  Then release.  Make this first physical contact brief.  Go through this process with each kitten.  Give them a special treat after all have been handled.  Repeat this process as frequently as possible.

3. Containment in Small Room. Within a week the kittens should have made considerable progress, although each kitten will develop at a different rate.  They should have access to one room and be placed in a cage only if necessary.  If there is one which is not becoming tame, place it in a separate cage or room away from the others.  This will allow you to work with the kitten more frequently and will increase its dependence on a human.  It will also prevent perpetuation of wildness in littermates.  In some litters, each member must be isolated in order to not reinforce wildness in the group.

4. Exposure to Others. If the feral kitten can be around another calm, friendly cat it will help the taming process.  Kittens are "copy-cats" and will follow the tame cat's behavior, coming over to be petted if they hear the tame cat purring while being petted.  Give frequent treats by hand, and teach them to play with cat toys, such as a Cat Dancer.  Interaction with humans during play can hasten the taming process.

   If you have to medicate, use liquid medicine in moist food, or crush tablets into baby food.  Forcing tablets down a feral cat or kitten causes severe trauma and can undo the taming process.  When the kittens no longer respond by biting, encourage friends to handle them as often as possible.  Socialization with other humans is very important.  Feral cats tend to bond with one human so they adjust to a new home better if they have also socialized with other humans.

5. Placement in Adoptive Home. Kittens do best if there are no small children in the home.  All the work you have done can easily be shattered by normal child activity and noise.  This is vital to remember when placing kittens for adoption.  The most suitable home is a calm environment so the kittens feel secure.  Ideally two kittens should be placed together -- or in a home where an adult human is at home during the day.

While you're fostering the kittens, it is a good idea to start the adoption process by doing what you can to find permanent homes for them.  This is true even if you are fostering through a shelter.  Many times you will be pleased to find that all have homes by the time they are old enough to be adopted out.

How To Find A Guardian. Here are some ideas on how to find homes and qualify potential adopters:

• Tell every person you know that you have loving foster kittens that need permanent homes.  This includes friends, relatives, neighbors, co-workers, church, social and business groups, e-mail lists, your children's schoolmates.  Even though they may not be direct candidates, they may know someone who is.  Feed them positive information about the kittens and any anecdotal information you may have on where the kittens were born, etc.  The more people you reach the better.

• Advertise in newspapers and post "For Adoption" flyers in key locations -- bulletin boards in vet clinics, pet supply stores, workplaces and churches.  Include a photo -- and include your phone number -- preferably multiple times in tear-off strips on the bottom.

• Be sure the kittens are spayed/neutered and vaccinated prior to turning over to a new home.  Guardians will be much more comfortable adopting a kitten with a clear medical history.

Approximate Age	Characteristics
Gestation Period	63 days
Birth	Closed eyes / folded ears
5 Days	Loses umbilical cord
5-13 Days	Eyes open
14 Days	Teething begins
18 Days	Litter box use begins  Ears straighten  Crawling begins
21 Days	Litter box training complete  Starts eating wet kitten food
28-35 Days	Kitten stands  Weaning process begins  Able to chew dry food  Eyes become clear  Ears stand fully upright
14-49 Days	Critical socialization window
42 Days	Deworm and vaccinate (FRTC)
56 Days	Old enough for adoption